The mystery of the ruby of chocolate: the discovery or a clever fake?

© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in BelgiumThe mystery of the ruby of chocolate: the discovery or a clever fake?© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel Dunand

Chocolate pink has long been known advanced sweet tooth. Large confectionery companies are doing it from the white, which is dyed in a special way dried berries or fruit. But technology from the Swiss company Barry Callebaut claims to have discovered a new type of chocolate, creating a treat of unusual colors, using only the original product — the cocoa beans.According to them, the secret is in the unique varieties of cocoa, originally, with a fruity taste. For the production of sweets on it does not use any colourants or flavourings. Of course, neither the cocoa nor the technology of manufacturing the new, ruby, varieties of Swiss chocolatiers do not open. For RIA of «Science», of course, interested in the fact the launch of the new varieties of cocoa beans, which give the opportunity to a chocolate pink color. However, as it turned out, Russian experts, ranging from chocolatiers and ending with the biologists, it is not sure that ruby treats are made without added dyes.

I would like to mention that such a product can hardly be called chocolate according to the legislation. After all, cocoa becomes chocolate, the taste and the aroma when roasting, and the fruit must be completely ripe. And the roasting gives them a brown color which may vary in shades, but natural cocoa powder cannot be red or pink. But with the help of supplements such you can get, but is it a natural chocolate? At the moment I’m not ready to accept a new kind of chocolate «discovery», at least until such time as I fully know and understand the technology of its production».

© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in BelgiumThe mystery of the ruby of chocolate: the discovery or a clever fake?© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in Belgium

Indeed, the roasting of cocoa beans is a very important stage, which determines the taste, smell and quality of the future chocolate. To do this, the beans are heated to a temperature of 130-150 °C. the Roasting can’t be a standard process, as the size of beans, moisture content and degree of maturation differ. After the heat treatment the fruits lose their moisture and acquire a distinctive brown color. However, when roasting the kernels, you have something to add, for example, alkali, able to change the color of cocoa beans. Usually the hue varies from light brown to dark, but why not «pohimichit» and not get pink?

© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in BelgiumThe mystery of the ruby of chocolate: the discovery or a clever fake?© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in Belgium

Researcher and curator of the collection of tropical plants in the Botanical garden of MSU «Aptekarsky ogorod» Vitaly Lenkin suggests that trees can remove unripe fruits and ferment them for a short period of time: «They may not even ferment and dehydrate. Alternatively, you can to get the extract, giving the existing of chocolate pink. But I have no confidence that the product can be called chocolate. It’s just a new kind of sweets».

However, Swiss engineers insist on opening a new kind of chocolate: «Ruby chocolate is very special. This is the fourth kind of chocolate after the black, milk and white. We have created a fourth type. It is a natural chocolate. He has a ruby color and unique taste. This chocolate taste, freshness and fruit,» says Antoine de Saint-Affrique, Director of Barry Callebaut.

«Dark chocolate has a bitter taste, so you feel the bitterness of the cocoa. White chocolate is quite sweet, with milky taste. Ruby — something completely different, with the sour taste. You feel the sour taste of fruits and berries,» adds prodemonstrirovali new Martin dies, pastry chef, chocolate Academy Cacao Barry in Paris.

© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in BelgiumThe mystery of the ruby of chocolate: the discovery or a clever fake?© AFP 2017 / Emmanuel DunandРубиновый chocolate factory of Barry Callebaut in Belgium

However, the known specialist in cocoa beans Columbia University hydrology, meteorology Helmut Edison Nieves of Orduna (Helmuth Edisson Nieves Orduña) sure that no new varieties of cocoa beans does not exist: «I know ten varieties of cocoa, but none of them gives ruby the ruby beans or chocolate. This «new chocolate» probably made from beans obtained from conventional cocoa fruit. If we compare ruby chocolate with others, the difference can give the treatment process of the beans, but not their new grade. At the moment I assume that ruby chocolate is marketing. Cocoa beans in the natural state (prior to fermentation) have color from white to purple, and this pigmentation is dependent on their grades. After fermentation (a process in which the chocolate a distinctive flavor and aroma) of the primary color of the beans is lost, changing to dark brown. So it’s hard to believe this is a new kind of chocolate. Maybe the producers changed some things in the process of further processing to obtain a pink color.»

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